Safety

HANS device

The HANS device (Head And Neck Support device) is a safety item compulsory in many auto racing sports. Primarily made of carbon-fiber, the device is something of a U-shape, the back of the U set behind the back of the neck and the two arms laying flat along the top of the chest over the pectoral muscles; the device in general supported by the shoulders. It is attached only to the helmet—and not to the belts, driver's body, or seat—by two anchors on either side, much like the Hutchens device but placed slightly back. The purpose of the device is to stop the head from whipping forward in a crash but to not restrict the movement of the neck; instead, when the body slides forward in a crash, the HANS device stays where it was on the belts with the friction of the rubber surface on its arms, the straps only becoming taunt and coming into effect during the crash. This reduces the chances of head or neck injuries, particularly a basal skull fracture, in the event of a crash.

The device was designed in the early 1980s by Dr. Robert Hubbard, a professor of biomechanical engineering at Michigan State University. After talking to his brother-in-law, road-racer Jim Downing, after the death of one of their mutual friends from such a head injury, it was decided that some sort of protection was required to help prevent injuries from sudden stops, especially during accidents. The primary cause of death amongst drivers during races was through violent head movements, where the body remains in place because of the seat belts but the momentum keeps the head moving forwards. It is still debated whether the death of popular NASCAR driver Dale Earnhardt was the result of a broken seat belt, or inadequate head and neck restraint.

Many drivers found it difficult to get used to the device, claiming it to be uncomfortable, more restrictive and fearing that it would cause more injuries and problems than it prevented. Some stated that the positioning of the device made the seat belts feel less secure or rubbed on the shoulders or collarbone. Many of these problems, however, stem from improper mounting of the seat belts, wrong sizes, and occasionally drivers, uncomfortable with how much freedom the device gives the head to move, will shorten the straps to the familiar length required for the Hutchens device, far short of the five inches recommended for the HANS. The seat belts seem to be looser than they were because of the extra padding and broader weight distribution of the HANS; belt slippage is caused by improper belt mounting: the belts being mounted either too far apart, or too low or high.

Roll Cage Basics

A roll cage is a specially constructed frame built around the cab of a vehicle to protect the driver from being injured in an accident, particularly in the event of a rollover. Roll cages extend in front of the driver, next to the A-pillar, to provide as much high-speed protection as possible in a vehicle. This is compared to the protection provided in open wheel racing, where a solid shell encases the majority of the driver's body as well as a rollover hoop that extends over the driver's helmet. A roll cage can also do a great deal to stiffen the chassis, which is desirable in racing applications.

Some kind of roll cage is better than not having one at all. Roll cages are one area where you don’t want to be a penny pincher, your life depends on them.

Drag Chutes, Upacked or Packed?

The worst thing a racer can do is leave the chute packed for years; because when they need the chute to work, it may not work. The reason is, the chute becomes compressed and will wedge itself in the pack and may not deploy correctly even with a spring pushing on it. It can also lead to deterioration of the chute itself from moisture.

The only time the chute should be packed is at the racetrack. When the car is in the trailer or garage the chute should be unpacked.

Ideally, after your last pass you should remove the chute and shroudlines from the car and place it in something like a milkcrate where it can breath. This is also a good time to inspect for any damage the chute may have. Then when you get it home, store it in a dry location out of the sun. Do not put the chute back on the car until you take the car back to the track, ideally you should repack the chute at the track. If you make this procedure a habit, you will always have a fresh pack and a chute that will work when you need it. If you fail to follow these cautions, the chute may fail.

It is also a good idea to deploy the chute at least once or twice whether you need it to stop or not. This will ensure that your chute is operating correctly, plus gives you a better understanding how your chute works.

Always follow the drag chute manufacturers’ instructions and cautions before using the chute at the track.

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